Whitework Updated September 20, 2003 | ||
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The following types of embroidery can be classified as whitework: 1. Swiss Embroidery
Swiss Embroidery, as its name implies, originated in Switzerland, but is also done in Italy and other countries. It consists mainly of raised satin stitches, blanket stitch, snails trail, eyelets-holes, a little cutwork filled with lacy rosettes, a little shadow work and also a few fillings like seed stitch and punching. The material used is a fine, pure and almost transparent linen cambric, Swiss organdy or muslin. Mountmellick work is Irish in origin, and not as fine as most whitework. It does not contain any openwork, it is quick to do, is laundered well and is durable. Therefore it is practical for table and bed linens and for clothing. A variety of stitches is used, and it is always worked white-on-white. Broderie Anglaise is a very old and well-known type of embroidery. It was used to adorn underclothing, table and bed linen and children's clothing. The designs consist almost entirely of eyelet-holes of different shapes and sizes and arranged in rows or groups to form flowers, sprigs, flowing lines, etc. Cutwork generally consists of shapes outlined with running stitches, over which flat buttonhole stitches of very even tension are worked. The design is planned so that small spaces remain between these shapes where the material is then cut away. The various types of cutwork differ mostly in design, and in the way that the open spaces are decorated. Handmade Lace, or Venetian Point are essentially needle lace. The stitches are similar to Reticella Lace, but the pieces are made separately and later affixed to the material. Bullion Work consists of outlines in buttonhole stitch with a ring bullion picot in about every 6th stitch. The ring bullion, after completion, is joined to the buttonhole stitch from the top instead of from the back. Shadow Work is done on transparent material like a very fine linen or silk organza. It is worked mainly in close herringbone stitch, worked on the wrong side and close together. What shows on the right side of the work are backstitches in the outline of the design. Old Hedebo Embroidery is, in reality a type of drawn thread work.The designs are mostly based on simple abstract shapes, often resembling flowers and leaves. These are outlined with 2 close rows of chain stitch. Then, some of the threads are removed in both directions of the motif. Finally these shapes are strengthened and decorated.
Much of the information contained here came from Hetsie van Wyk's book, Embroider Now. This book contains much more detail on these subjects, as well as stitch descriptions and projects to try. You may find a few examples of simple projects to try in some of these techniques in modern stitchers' magazines. You might want to take a look! Needlework (England), July, 1997 - This magazine contains a wonderful article about Irish Mountmellick embroidery complete with pictures and descriptions. In addition, there is a pattern for a book cover in this technique. Needlecraft (England), August, 1997 - This magazine has a pattern for a potpourri cushion done in shadowwork. The tecxhnique description and stitch diagrams are particularly good. The Needleworker (USA), Summer 1997 - This has a pattern for a sampler done in Schwalm embroidery, which is a German whitework technique very similar to Hedebo work. --------------- For more on Hedebo embroidery, see my Tips & Techniques letter. --------------- Another good description of Whitework can be found in Kathy Dyer's FAQ:
--------------- The Heritage Shoppe also has an article on whitework
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Sarah Adams Mountmellick is a category of whitework, named from a town in Ireland. It is similar to crewel, using heavy white cotton thread. The designs are usually florals.
This is not a counted techniques, but you are probably familiar with the stitches used: buttonhole, stem, chain, feather, herringbone, etc. Satin and buttonhole stitches are often padded to make as much dimension as possible.
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